Not every “sore young” goes away with age …
Even if you wash your face with soap ten times a day, wipe your face with alcohol and fat-free lotions, cleanse with scrubs and systematically squeeze out acne, you will not get rid of acne. It is impossible to recover from this scourge, but you can achieve long-term remission. And do not trust “people who know” – the sore does not go away with age.
Acne “ripens” in adolescence, when the ratio of male and female sex hormones changes. Mostly at the age of 11-13, says Zhanna Prikhodko, a dermatologist-cosmetologist at the Janvi cosmetology center. – The sebaceous glands begin to actively produce sebum. In most cases, a hereditary factor is triggered. Especially if the skin of a teenager is oily or combination.
Under the influence of hormones, the sebaceous gland expands – pores appear on the skin. At the mouth of its duct, a layer of horny scales coarsens, which “peel off” faster than usual. The scales clog the spill – a “thrombus” is formed from the sebum, which stretches the gland cavity. Propionobacterium acne begins to actively multiply in the fat clot. This bacterium is a typical representative of the sebaceous gland microflora. If it gets out of control of the immune system, an inflammatory process develops. The microorganism feeds on glycerin of sebum, leaving after a hearty meal “scraps” of free fatty acids, which disrupt the formation of horny scales at the mouth of the sebaceous gland and make acne more pronounced.
The content of exogenous fatty acids (linoleic and linolenic), on the contrary, decreases. “The skin is vulnerable – staphylococci, streptococci and other pathogens of purulent infections freely settle in the sebaceous glands,” says the doctor. “When the“ clogged ”sebaceous gland fills with sebum, a comedone forms. If it does not come out, the sebum“ sticks out ”white If it turns out, the fat is partially oxidized, melanin and other pigments are mixed with it, and the “tip” of the comedone turns black …
Dermatologists advise to break the fight against acne into several stages. First of all, the secretion of sebum should be normalized. But do not rush to “scrub” your face with a soapy sponge and cotton pads “infused” with alcohol. Conduct an experiment – “rinse” the skin with acetone. There is more than enough fat in the ducts of the glands, and it cannot be scraped out from there with any solvents. Another nuance – acetone destroys a thin layer of lipids that envelop the scales of the stratum corneum. It is these fat-like substances that prevent the skin from becoming irritated. “If you wash the lipids with acetone, soap or alcohol, the skin” withers. “But acne” will bloom violently. ”
To “dry” the sebaceous glands, you will have to block the “miraculous conversion” of testosterone into the active hormone dihydrotestosterone – plant extracts, gamma-linolenic acid and zinc preparations. Then – to overcome hyperkeratosis. NOT scrubs – they scratch the skin like sandpaper! It is also not worth squeezing out acne – the walls of the sebaceous gland can rupture, and pus will penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin. “In a few days, a red spot will appear in that place, and later – an atrophic scar,” warns Zhanna Prikhodko.
“If acne is not treated, the tissue will heal – you will have to carry out laser resurfacing, microdermabrasion or photo rejuvenation.” Conclusion: “sprinkled” with acne – run to the doctor! they are ineffective, since they do not contain active substances in sufficient concentrations. Only professional cosmetics can help. Often – “with the support” of antibacterial agents. Oils containing polyunsaturated fatty acids – oil of black currant, borage, evening primrose, wheat germ, avocado will restore the barrier function of the skin etc.
“Acne is a complex problem that requires external and internal intervention, so avoid stress and overwork. Do not overuse sweets and fatty foods. Do not use cheap decorative cosmetics (especially if you forget to wash it off at night) and greasy creams”, – the cosmetologist advises.
A few words about cosmetics. Synthetic emollients used to “spy” scrubs, masks, tonic lotions clog pores, creating an ideal breeding ground for comedones. This substance is added to cosmetics so that the ingredients are maximally absorbed by the skin. The condition of the skin improves in a matter of minutes – it becomes elastic, soft and smooth to the touch. Of course, this is just an illusion. A cream for a few hryvnias is not a rejuvenating apple … It is necessary to look for non-comedogenic cosmetics, not “bursting at the seams” from the emollient.
By the way, harmful decorative cosmetics – lipstick and blush, it is advisable for teenage girls to limit themselves to lip gloss. It is also worth giving up alcohol – alcohol “heats up” the inflammatory processes in the body …